Even Count Flat Peyote Stitch – Two Needle Start
Figure 1 Pull 2 full arm lengths of nymo off the spool and thread a needle on each end of the thread. Turn the graph 90º. We will be completing the first 3 rows of the peyote graph in one step. Pick up 2 gold beads (with either needle) and pull them down to the center of the thread. Pick up 1 gold bead, pass both needles through it, and pull it down to the center of the thread. Pick up 1 gold bead on one needle and 1 blue bead on the other needle. Pull them down to the center.
Figure 2 Follow your graph or Figure 2 at left until the row is completed. Tighten the beads so that they fit snugly but comfortably together. Pass one needle through the last bead leaving a loop of thread on the outside of the bead. Be careful not to split the threads that are inside of the bead. Remove the needle from 1 thread and park it out of the way until it is needed. To keep it from tangling you may wish to roll it around a small piece of paper or cardboard or place it into a small ziplock baggie.
Figure 3 Turn your beadwork 90º clockwise. Pick up the thread with needle attached, pick up 1 gold bead and pass back through the last bead on the previous row (heading towards your left hand). This bead will fit in the recessed or “innie” space. Pick up 1 blue bead and pass through the next protruding bead (“outie” bead). Following the peyote graph continue across the row in this manner.
Figure 4 To turn and start a new row simply pick up the next bead and continue working across the new row in the same manner.
Figure 5 Repeat the same turn on the end with the parked thread. Turn and start a new row by simply picking up the next bead and continue working across the new row in the same manner.
Threading the Needle
One of the most difficult tasks to learn in beadweaving is threading the needle. In one hand you have this super thin needle with an almost invisible hole and in the other you have a piece of thread that is supposed to go through that same hole that you just can’s see. Here’s some advice on thread choices and on how to finally thread the needle.
Thread Choices: My preference in beading threads is NYMO D. There are other manufacturers of threads, such as Silamide, Conso, Kevlar, etc. but I have been most comfortable with NYMO. If you have the opportunity try out some of the other threads on the market and find what works best for you. Match your thread color to your bead color. If that is impossible, remember that a darker color will recede between the beads and not be as apparent in your work. Also keep in mind when working with transparent beads that the color of your thread will affect the color of your beads.
Needling the Thread: Proper threading helps to cut down on the thread twisting and knotting while you work. The secret is to thread the needle before cutting the length of thread off of the bobbin. Threads are slightly twisted, and doing this will insure that you are always using the correct end of the thread. Threading a beading needle is usually the hardest thing for a beginning beader. Rather than thread my needle, I needle my thread. To do this hold the thread between your index finger and thumb only leaving the tip of the thread peeking out from your fingers. Push the needle eye onto the thread and pull gently as it comes through the eye of the needle. If you have trouble flip the needle over and try the other side of the needle eye. (Needles have good sides and bad sides.) I recommend a thread length of approximately 2 yards. You will work with longer threads in beading than you may be accustomed to in needlework. However, as with any art do what is comfortable for you. If you cannot manage a longer thread without knotting use shorter lengths. The only difference is that you will need to start a new thread more often.
Now go forth and BEAD!
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